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Ingredient Glossary

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) most commonly used in cosmetic applications are typically derived from food products including glycolic acid(from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine). Glycolic acid, having the smallest molecular size, is the AHA with greatest bioavailability and penetrates the skin most easily; this largely accounts for the popularity of this product in cosmetic applications. AHAs have a profound effect on keratinization; which is clinically detectable by the formation of a new stratum corneum. It appears that AHAs modulate this formation through diminished cellular cohesion between corneocytes at the lowest levels of the stratum corneum. AHAs with greater bioavailability appear to have deeper dermal effects. Glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid, on topical application to photodamaged skin, have been shown to produce increased amounts of mucopolysaccharides and collagen and increased skin thickness without detectable inflammation, as monitored by skin biopsies


Argireline NP is a peptide (formerly named acetyl hexapeptide-3, now acetyl hexapeptide-8) that inhibits SNARE complex formation and catecholamine release, resulting in the reduction of the degree of existing facial wrinkles and demonstrated effectiveness against their development with regular use. In clinical studies of twice-a-day treatment, the severity of wrinkles around the eyes decreased up to 17% after 15 days and 27% following 30 days of treatment.

 

Argan Oil: moisturizes superbly, reduces the appearance of fine lines, acts as SPF, regulates sebum production, prevents stretch marks, successfully treats acne/eczema/psoriasis, reduces inflammation and irritation, reduces the appearance of scars, neutralizes free radicals.  For all skin types.

 

Clove when applied topically, clove buds can help address skin problems like warts, acne, sagging skin, and wrinkles.

 

Coenzyme Q10 Coenzyme Q10 is a fat-soluble vitamin-like substance present in every cell of the human body. It serves as a coenzyme vital to production of energy within cells. It is also a very powerful antioxidant or free radical scavenger. Synthesized by the human body, it starts out at low levels when we are very young, reaches its peak in our young adulthood and shows a gradual decline after the age of 20, even as the body's demand for it grows. Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin E are the only oil-soluble antioxidants naturally present in the epidermis but readily depleted by UV-radiation. Both actives protect the skin from the damaging effects of UV light. Topically CoQ10  can penetrate the cell layers of the skin and may attenuate the depth of wrinkles due to photo aging, as well as epithelial cell turnover. Kerotinocyte cells make up the majority of human skin cells and CoQ10 has been shown to protect these skin cells from oxidative DNA damage induced by ultraviolet light. CoQ10 supports the body's natural defense mechanism against the damaging effects of free radicals, particularly the lipid per oxidation in skin. It is a useful cosmetic ingredient for skin care and sun protection products.

 

Dimethylaminoethanol [DMAE] is structurally similar to choline, an important component of cell membranes. Choline is a precursor to acetylcholine, which stimulates muscle contraction. DMAE is known to have skin tightening effects. In several clinical studies, it successfully reduced wrinkles, improved lip fullness, and tightened neck skin. 

 

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) is a polysaccharide and a compound that occurs naturally in every tissue of the body, with the highest concentrations occurring in tissues such as skin, cartilage and eyes. Providing protection to cell structures, HA is the natural gel between skin cells that serves as a water reservoir for the cells. As we age, skin loses hyaluronic acid and the ability to hold sufficient water in this reservoir. Feeding new hyaluronic acid to skin may help hydrate skin's intercellular reservoir, raising skin's moisture level, and smoothing down age lines.

 

Green tea has numerous benefits in almost all aspects of skin care. The main active ingredient, EGCG, is a potent antioxidant, and protects skin from UV damage. This results in reduced wrinkling, increased collagen content, smoother skin, thicker and more elastic epidermis and other visual benefits. Green tea also helps to moisturize the skin and improves the long-term barrier capabilities. Among the numerous clinical benefits are antibacterial and antifungal effects, which make green tea useful in wound care. Most important health effect is the prevention of melanoma and other types of skin cancer, resulting partly from the EGCG capability to neutralize free radicals and activate DNA repair. Since the extract also reduces inflammation and sebum secretion, it is an effective treatment against acne.

 

Vitamin C has been shown to be effective in increasing collagen deposits and also enhancing collagen lattice contractions, implying that exogenous Vitamin C application contributes to strengthening the collagen framework and maintaining a healthy dermis.  Topical application of Vitamin C has been shown to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Caused by mechanisms supporting collagen production, this leads to improving the appearance of the skin.  It has further been proven to reduce the severity of sunburns and age spots.

 

InylineTM Solution targets this second strategy by blocking the agrin binding site in MuSK and its mechanism of action causing modulation of muscle contraction leading to muscle relaxation. From a cosmetic point of view, in the treatment of expression wrinkles, its pathway is critical in the contraction process and therefore its blockage results in muscle relaxation, with the skin surface appearing smoother and line depth decreasing.

 

Irish Moss works well to help the product feel soothing and wonderful on the skin. It nourishes the skin with all of its precious botanical constituents.Irish moss is a seaweed that is harvested in shallow water.

 

Jojoba oil: brilliant at reducing oil production for oily/combination skin.  It can clear up acne with its sebum breakdown properties, which unclogs pores.  A must have for acne prone skin.  For all skin types.

 

Juniper is a fantastic astringent. It kills bacteria associated with acne and cystic acne. It also treats eczema. It is advised to use this oil more sparingly due to its powerful astringent qualities. Advised for troubled skin.

 

Licorice Root Produced from the hydrolysis of Glycyrrhicinate from the roots and rhizomes of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, Licorice Root has a long history of use as an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory. It has been used extensively in Europe and the US as a soothing ingredient in cough suppressants and is often used in traditional Chinese medicine as an herbal healing agent.This powder contains little Glabridin, the component of Licorice used in cosmetic products for its skin whitening effect.  Its targeted usefulness is as an anti-irritation, anti-inflammatory agent.

 

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) also known as nicotinamide, is a water soluble form of vitamin B3. Vitamin B3 is essential for maintaining skin health. Niacinamide increases production of important skin structural components such as collagen, ceramide, and keratin. This helps increase moisture and strengthen skin. Niacinamide is known to decrease hyperpigmentation, effectively lightening and brightening skin, especially when used together with n-acetyl glucosamine, a hyaluronic acid precursor. It reduces wrinkles and again, this effect is better with n-acetyl glucosamine. Niacinamide also effectively helps reduce acne and heal wounds. It has anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Overall, niacinamide is a compound with many different uses that can increase overall skin health.

 

Matrixylâ„¢ 3000 is an anti-aging product from Sederma. "Matrikine" is the term proposed for fragmented matrix peptides able to regulate cell activity. Matrixyl 3000 contains two matrikines, Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR. Acting as messengers of cutaneous restructuration and repair, these two peptides work synergistically to restore and maintain the skin's youthful appearance. Matrixylâ„¢ 3000 is useful in anti-aging products and wrinkle treatment products such as gels, serums, lotions and creams.

Pepha®-Tight is a highly purified biotechnologically produced extract from the microalgae Nannochloropsis oculata combined with a well balanced fraction of polysaccharides. It functions as a skin tightener which provides immediate tightening to the skin. It has been shown to protect human fibroblasts from oxidative stress, simultaneously increasing the formation of collagen-l thereby promoting a long term tightening effect through the strengthening of the skin's connective tissue.

 

Mixed Tocopherols concentrated to contain naturally occurring d-alpha, d-beta, d-gamma and d-delta tocopherols.  Mixed Tocopherols guards against oxidation and extends your product's shelf life naturally.

 

Pepha®-Tight is a highly purified biotechnologically produced extract from the microalgae Nannochloropsis oculata combined with a well balanced fraction of polysaccharides. It functions as a skin tightener which provides immediate tightening to the skin. It has been shown to protect human fibroblasts from oxidative stress, simultaneously increasing the formation of collagen-l thereby promoting a long term tightening effect through the strengthening of the skin's connective tissue.

 

Retinol, is just another name for vitamin A. Retinol is an extremely effective cell-communicating ingredient, which means it can literally connect to almost any skin cell and tell it to behave like a healthy, younger skin cell. But there's more:
Retinol is an antioxidant, and thus can interrupt the free-radical damage process that causes skin to look and act older. This action helps prevent wrinkling and increases collagen production.Retinol is effective at managing acne and eczema, as well as improving discolorations and wrinkles from sun damage. All of these benefits are why retinol helps your skin look and act younger! In total, retinol can help more than 100 skin issues. It is a true superstar for your skin! Both the cosmetic forms and the prescription forms of vitamin A can cause irritation, but, as you would expect, the highest risk of irritation is with the prescription forms (retinoids).

 

Reishi/Kojic acid is a fine white powdery substance composed of tiny crystals. The formal discovery of kojic acid occurred in 1989, and since then, the substance has been used widely in skin care products due to its numerous benefits. The ingredient is obtained from mushrooms that are native to Japan and is a by-product of the fermentation process used to produce the alcoholic beverage sake.In skin care products, kojic acid functions primarily as a skin-lightening agent. To understand kojic acid's effects, it is necessary to understand how the skin gets it color. The body naturally produces a pigment known as melanin through specialized cells known as melanocytes. A person's genes determine how much melanin the body naturally produces. In people with fair skin, only small amounts of melanin are manufactured by the melanocytes, while copious amounts of the pigment are made by the cells of those with dark complexions. When kojic acid is applied to the skin in concentrated amounts, the chemicals in the ingredient work on the melanocytes, interfering with the production of melanin. The exact way in which kojic acid lessens melanin production is not known, but many experts believe that the ingredient prevents an enzyme known as tyroinase from beginning the reactions in the cells that are necessary for manufacturing the pigment.


Silk is taken from the cocoon of the silkworm moth (Bombyx mori) after the moth has emerged from the cocoon following its complete metamorphosis from caterpillar to moth. This is to ensure that no moths are harmed in the harvesting of the silk. After the silk thread is isolated from the vacant cocoon, the fibers are cleaned and degummed. The individual silk fiber, too fine to handle individually, is then wound with other fibers onto a reel creatingone long, strong thread. The threads are then combed to remove the noils. Noils, by-products of the textile industry, are short fibers combed from the long fibers during the preparation of the silk thread. These noils are used in the production of our silk proteins. Our Silk Amino Acids are manufactured from the silk noils by hydrolyzing them down to the free amino acids under carefully controlled conditions.

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